Visibility is safety concern #1. Nothing else matters if you can’t see what you’re getting ready to run into.

I’ve tried a lot of different things, and this is the method I’m sticking to. After cleaning the first car this way, I walked back out to look it over again, and I thought I had the windows rolled down it was that clear.

Getting down to bare glass (exterior)

Only needs done initially; doesn’t need done every time the windows get dirt on them.

1. Pick off large debris (sticks, leaves, etc).
2. Strip wash (Adam’s Strip Wash) with cloth or washing mitt, rinse, and dry.
3. Squirt isopropyl alcohol on glass in small area, and use a razor scraper and extension to clean off stuck tar and large contaminants.
4. Wash again, and use a clay bar.
5. Use isopropyl alcohol on a shop rag and clean the entire surface.

Should be down to bare glass now.

Repair chips if needed

Watch the Project Farm video on chip repair channel on YouTube. Permatex does the best job, but Rain-X is almost as good and is more affordable. Having a professional repair is the best option, but it’s the most expensive, unless insurance covers full price.

1. Repair chips if needed.

Apply water repellent

Another good video from Project Farm, on water repellent. All of his videos are excellent: 100% signal / 0% noise, and if you’re in a hurry, just skip to the end to see the final spreadsheet results.

“GTECHNIQ Water Repellent Cleaner” is the clear winner. It’s a really good product.

“Rain-X Water Repellent” is a good product, and it’s cheaper and much easier to acquire (Wal-Mart or anywhere).

1. Follow the instructions on the bottle. Using a waffle weave microfiber towel, apply the “GTECHNIQ Water Repellent Cleaner” to the surface.
2. Wait 15-20 minutes. Take a break. At this point, you’ll need it.
3. Using a separate waffle weave microfiber towel, buff the surface, removing excess.

Clean and polish windows (internal and external)

Interior windows get coated with dust and dirt, cigarette smoke, vaping moisture deposits, sneezes, and miscellany. But a lot of that deposit is from the oils in the plastics in the dash and other parts, especially in intense heat. You get a nice literal oil coating on the inside of the windows.

Be sure to roll the windows down to get the top where they’re in contact with the trim seal; you’ll probably see rubber deposits from the trim seal. It’s rough on the seals when the windows stick to them, especially in the winter when iced up.

1. Following the instructions on the bottle, spray “GTECHNIQ Perfect Glass” cleaner on the glass. Use a clean waffle weave microfiber towel to clean the window.
2. Use a separate waffle weave microfiber towel to go back over and buff out any excess cleaner and to polish.

Should have really clear glass now.

Fill wiper fluid reservoir

1. Fill the reservoir with “Rain-X 2-in-1 All Weather Wiper Fluid.”

Wiper blade maintenance

Always use silicone wiper blades; they last longer. “Rain-X Silicone Endura” blades work well, and you can get them most anywhere (Wal-Mart). If a wiper blade is damaged or torn, replace it.

1. Pull the wiper blades up in the freestanding position.
2. Use a shop towel and “Rain-X 2-in-1 All Weather Wiper Fluid” to clean the wiper blades. Get all that dirt and grime off. Apply liberally; it’ll soak in and help preserve the rubber in the wiper blade.

Trim seal maintenance

The U-shaped trim seal that the windows roll up into need maintained.

1. Roll the windows down and clean the rubber trim well. Clean with detergent or other (“Simple Green”) and rinse and dry. Place a thick microfiber towel over some pointing implement, like a regular screwdriver, soak the tip, and insert into the tracks to clean.
2. Liberally apply “303 Protectant” to the trim seal, and wipe in. This conditions and extends the life of the seal, and it lubricates it to help prevent the glass from sticking to it. Place a thick microfiber towel over some pointing implement, like a regular screwdriver, soak the tip, and insert into the tracks to apply the 303 deep.